Wednesday, March 05, 2008

New TT rig

Well it was about time. I had my federal tax return in my account for almost 48 hours, and then I found this prize online. $340 for a proper TT frame from a relatively reputable manufacturer? Hell yes I will!

The new TT rig, pictured with the seat post about where it needs to be- plenty of drop.



Also obtaining some new carbon TT bars from Aerus. That'll compensate weightwise for the aluminum steerer tube


My old TT bike was a Titanium Airborne, which was a great road bike (albeit a tad heavy) and was an allright TT bike, but I really needed something with more upright geometry- a real TT frame. The Jamis has rear facing dropouts, so I can slide the rear wheel right up into the slots for it in the seattube. Also has some aero tubing. The seatpost above is roughly placed where it's going to have to be, which looks like a lot, because it is... but that is good- plenty of room for drop to the handlebars. I'm also scheming on making some sort of fairing to make the seatpost aero... because you know I'm an engineering dork.

I'm also flirting with the idea of, ocasionally, rigging this bad boy up for the track. Would require a bit of work- taking the ders and brakes off, taking all the cables out of the frame, but all the housing could stay attached to the handlebars. Then just throwing a different crankset on, another seatpost/saddle combo, and a track bar (and likely a different stem). Complicated enough that I don't want to do it all the time, but for a few weekends a year, I say its definitely worth it until I get a track frame (next year when I get my tax return back).

So if you have any of the following laying around, let me know:
1. Track crankset (144BCD) Octalink. Not sure about crankarm length- 170??
2. Track chainrings / cogs
3. Track rear hub, or rear wheel
4. Handlebar for the track- what do people use compared to their road bars?? smaller?

1 comment:

bikepennst8 said...

I rock 170's on the track and 175's on the road. It seems to work out nice for most people. I just use similar bars to the ones I have on the Road so it doesnt feel funny. Track Chainrings and Cogs can get expensive.

One Problem though - Track Hub Spacing is a little different from road. I think the rear on road is 130mm and 120mm on the track. Not sure if you can make that work.